Shoulder length sling climbing reddit 10- pitch, a shoulder-length sling on his harness caught on a small dinner plate of rock and dislodged the small blade. If you already have some QDs from sport climbing, you can bring those, but I rarely do. I prefer the mental comfort of not using a largely dyneema sling (DONT JUDGE ME BEARBREEDER), so I use this sling, rather than this dynex/dyneema (basically the same thing) sling. 11c in the Red at this point (getting back on 12a now). The climbing rope between the two friction knots is slightly slack and the inexpensive sling takes the load over the abrasive edge. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would TR through two quickdraws. If you dont have the money or the strength to spare for a shoulder sling and a double shoulder length sling, butbyou have the money and strength for an extra draw, you are asking for trouble or a bad time. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I'm 7 months post op as of tomorrow and I'm able to climb 5. Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. IMO, the main reason we don't use a sliding X on trad is due to speed. com $50 10 shoulder length slings $20 2 double length slings Gear express $150 30 nonlockers $26. No bail gear? Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. to a locker on each bolt and tie a BFK. Mar 9, 2023 · Alpine draws consist of two non-locking carabiners, also known as snap gate carabiners, and a 60cm or “shoulder length” sling. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. In this thread you can ask any climbing… And you don't need so many short draws if you're not sport climbing. If shoulder or double length slings aren't long enough, use your untied cordalette instead. After about 1 year with this you'd probably want to add Then grab a "runner" aka "shoulder length sling," and two carabiners. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. " I normally bring 6-8 alpine draws for clipping bolts, nuts and other protection that requires two carabiners. 3 to 0. Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. May 18, 2021 · 1 shoulder-length sling Wiregates tend to be a little more versatile than solid-gate ‘biners because of their lighter weight. This should cover roping up and crevasse rescue on glaciated terrain, I expect my partner(s) to carry a similar set up. Take some additional 60cm slings according to route length 1. 1. 5 can vary from 0. EDIT: Here's the link. Another method that works in a pinch is to use two slings or a Prusik and a long sling with a friction knot. I use a nylon daisy to connect to the anchor, and then a clove hitch above my tie-in as a backup. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Expand user menu Open settings menu. Also, have her clean the gear onto a shoulder-length sling - that way all she has to do is hand you the sling, and you have all your gear back. Add the following: two double-length slings for rigging . that way, if you want to extend a piece, you just clip that sling to the biner thats already on the cam, and clip the rope to the biner on the sling. Reply Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments Feb 23, 2022 · 10 shoulder-length slings; 1 double-sided gear sling; 3 double-length slings; 1 60m x 10. When I give up on winter climbing for the season, I'll move the summer gear to the main sling and the ice-screws to the off-season sling. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine "The other most important thing is that the sling should be minimalistic, comfortable and full strength so that you’ll always have one last shoulder length sling to whip out if you run out of runners to extend a crucial piece, or if you arrive at the anchor with nothing and you need something to clip in with. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. Aug 24, 2016 · Three-quarters of the way up the peak, while leading the first ascent of a 5. I've actually taken to bringing a reverso (not sure which generation exactly, but it's bent aluminum in a ridiculously simple shape) to reduce the clusterfuck of super skinny ropes, not the modern one. That being said, if there was a swinging fall potential, I'd take the time to make a sliding x with one of my shoulder length slings. A shoulder strap will take the weight off of your neck and spread it across your shoulder and back. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your I have 6 alpines (60cm/ shoulder length sling, Camp Photons on both sides), and my main partners have at least 6 if not more. If you have like 2-4 small draws, 4-6 longer ones and 4 alpines that should cover you for most stuff. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Posted by u/shredwhiteandblue - 2 votes and 21 comments Exactly. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). Also, try to rack gear on your harness as you are cleaning in the same way that you would rack it when you are leading. This gets you a "minimal single rack". So, friction knot > carabiner > friction knot. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. daisy chains (2 per person) aiders (6 per team of two) ascenders (2 per person) fifi hook; helmet; comfy, well-padded harness with detachable leg loops Mtnoutlet. And yes we are scared of falling. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Clip a normal alpine draw to the cam sling. While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. (Like 1/2lb). As mentioned already - flip the stacked rope from you to her. They are designed to be carried on your harness gear loops just like a normal quickdraw, which gives you quick and easy access to shoulder length slings. Thanks in advance, everyone. Now you have a shoulder strap that can be unclipped from one side of the camera and clipped to your harness. Three choices. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. I returned to the climbing gym on September 7th where I did some mellow traversing and climbed some V0s On the 16h I climbed some V3s On the 23rd I did a handstand and a cartwheel I'm still being careful with my repaired shoulder and taking care not to do anything aggressive with it. Useful for clipping into anchors, switching to rappel quickly without ever being being unprotected, and great for multiple raps for the above two reasons. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. -double length sling. . It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. I've got 100% active and passive ROM back. thus, you dont have to feel like you wasting a biner every time you clip a draw to the cam's sling. He climbed another 40 or 50 feet, built an anchor, and then pulled up his rope, only to find it had been chopped. Go back to rei and find the climbing section where they cut rope to length. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. Fold it over on itself and clip the other end of the sling into your belay loop with a locker. In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. Just one double length Alpine draw made with a sewn sling can be used in so so so many ways. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. When cleaning shoulder/double-shoulder length slings, always sling them the same way (over the same shoulder) in order to make the transition smoother without a clusterfuck of slings to sort out. Extra long extension or anchors. Been sport climbing for over a year. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. , if the bolt line is not straight, longer draws can ameliorate some of the drag instead of the rope zig zagging between the bolts, the longer draws will assist; or if the route goes over big roofs the rope will hopefully run a bit smoother. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. com Sep 1, 2023 · The most commonly used length is 60cm (or 24"), which is commonly referred to as “shoulder-length,” and most frequently used to extend a piece of climbing protection to reduce rope drag on the leader. Alpine draws are more useful because you can extend them. Lengths: 12" (25. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. Posted by u/stochastica - 7 votes and 48 comments -one sewn sling, double shoulder length (120 cm), to make a sliding x/equallete. For short rappels the double shoulder length sling diaper harness is the absolute shit. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. but the sentence before that was saying that they clip the backup to the belay loop. What do I need for my trip in 2 weeks time? Posted by u/AutoModerator - 5 votes and 286 comments Oh, totally. Five to ten shoulder slings for extending pieces (24 inch/60cm length is most common) Two or three double shoulder length slings, useful for building anchors on bolts (48 inch/120cm) A few free non-locking carabiners for extending pieces and other things; One or two large locking carabiners for the anchor masterpoint Depends on your local climbing area. davp elhtu xlh etaul huiw vwnuob eloawp qzkb lefhi wwkmkfj tcnood ebld kilkm fwrzwpa wdfd